Troubleshoot

Does it feel like your WiFi has a mind of its own, working perfectly one minute and then dropping out the next? Have you ever been in the middle of an important video call, only to have your signal stutter or disappear entirely, leaving you frantically trying to reconnect? We've all been there, grappling with WiFi woes that seem to arise at the worst possible times.

In this note, we will take a look into the world of WiFi troubleshooting, where we'll uncover the mysteries behind unstable connections, slow speeds, and the dreaded 'no internet' indicator. Whether you're a tech newbie or a seasoned netizen, this guide will arm you with the knowledge to tackle common WiFi issues head-on, transforming you into the wireless warrior your home network needs.

Together, we'll learn how to diagnose and fix the most common WiFi hiccups, ensuring that your online life runs as smoothly and uninterrupted as your favorite streaming service. So, grab your devices, rally your routers, and get ready to banish those WiFi blues for good!

Frustrated user at a laptop in front of a WiFi router

Have You Checked the LED Indicators?

Your router's LED lights are like its way of communicating with you. They can tell you a lot about what's going on with your WiFi. A quick glance at these can let you know if your internet connection is working correctly, if your router is experiencing issues, or if it's just performing a routine update. Knowing how to read these indicators can save you a lot of time and frustration.

Whenever you have any issues, my first suggestion is to check LED indicators on your WiFi device(e.g, WiFi Router / Access Point). What kind of indicators the device has and what is it meant by each indicators are different from each hardware. I know nobody likes to read document/user manual, but keep the part of the document about indicator in handy place or search on internet for the model name to get the document.

The labels differ between models, but most home routers show the same few functions. A Power LED shows that the device has power and has finished booting. An Internet or WAN LED shows the link to the ISP. One LED per band, 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, shows whether that radio is on. LAN LEDs show the wired ports, and a WPS LED shows a pairing in progress.

Let's use these LEDs to split the problem in two. If the Internet LED is off or red, the router has no working link to the ISP. In that case, no WiFi setting on your laptop or phone will fix it. If the Internet LED is normal but the WiFi LED for a band is off, that radio is disabled or has failed. If every LED looks normal, the problem is more likely between the router and your device, and the next sections cover that part.

The Internet LED checks the ISP side : a red or dark Internet LED points to the modem, the cable or the ISP, not to WiFi.
The WiFi LEDs check the radios : a dark band LED means that band is off, so devices on that band cannot connect.
The meaning of a color or a blink is model specific : read it in the manual of your model before you draw a conclusion.

Have You checked the shortage - outage map for your ISP - Internet Service Provider?

Before diving into troubleshooting your WiFi network, it's wise to check if there is a reported service outage in your area. Many internet service providers have real-time outage maps or automated systems you can call to verify if there's a known issue. This can save you time by confirming whether the problem is on your end or a wider issue affecting multiple customers.

In most cases, your ISP's outage map on internet by searching 'Outage map of [ISP name]'.

There is one practical problem here. If your home Internet is down, your laptop cannot open the outage map either. So open the map on your phone over the cellular network, not over your home WiFi.

You can also check the answer yourself with a cable. Connect a laptop to a LAN port of the router with an Ethernet cable and try to open a web page. If the wired laptop also fails, the problem is on the ISP side or in the modem, and WiFi is not the cause. If the wired laptop works and the WiFi devices fail, the problem is in the WiFi part of the network. Most routers also show a WAN or Internet status page. A missing WAN IP address on that page means the router never received an address from the ISP.

Check the outage map over cellular : your home connection may be the thing that is down.
A wired test separates WiFi from the ISP : if a cable connection also fails, stop troubleshooting WiFi.

Why Does My WiFi Keep Disconnecting?

It's one of the most common questions in the digital age. From interference from your kitchen appliances to an overtaxed network struggling under the weight of too many devices, the reasons for WiFi disruptions are as varied as they are frustrating. Understanding the root causes of these issues is the first step towards a smooth, stable internet experience.

There are so many potential root causes for WiFi disconnections and it is hard to find the exact root cause in single shot. But it would be good to know some common list of rool cause as listed below

Interference from Other Electronic Devices: Microwaves, cordless phones, baby monitors, and Bluetooth devices can interfere with WiFi signals.
Overlapping WiFi Networks: Neighboring WiFi networks on the same channel can cause interference and connectivity issues.
Outdated Router Firmware: Not regularly updating the router's firmware can lead to stability problems.
Physical Obstructions: Walls, floors, furniture, and other physical barriers can weaken WiFi signals.
Distance from the Router: The further away a device is from the router, the weaker the signal strength.
Router Overload: Too many devices connected to the WiFi network at once can overload the router's capacity.
ISP Issues: Disruptions to service from your internet service provider can lead to WiFi disconnection.
Weak WiFi Security: Unauthorized access by others can consume bandwidth and lead to disconnections.
Automatic Channel Switching: Routers with auto-channel features might switch to a congested channel inadvertently.
Device Driver Issues: Outdated or corrupted drivers on your devices can cause disconnections.
Dynamic Frequency Selection (DFS) Interference: Routers may disconnect when they detect radar signals on certain 5 GHz channels.
IP Address Conflicts: Devices with conflicting IP addresses can disrupt network connectivity.
Bandwidth-Heavy Activities: Activities like streaming, gaming, or large downloads can saturate the network.
Power Saving Settings: Devices or routers set to power-saving modes may disconnect or reduce WiFi performance.
Faulty Hardware: Malfunctioning routers, modems, or network adapters can cause frequent disconnections.
Software Conflicts: VPNs, firewalls, or other network management software may interfere with the WiFi connection.
Environmental Factors: Extreme temperatures, humidity, or electrical interference can affect router performance.
Router Age: Older routers may not support newer devices' technology, leading to disconnections.
Improper Router Setup: Incorrect settings in the router configuration can lead to unstable connections.
Band Steering Issues: Incorrect steering of devices between 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands can cause dropouts.
Router Location: Routers placed in closed spaces, like cabinets, may have limited signal dispersion.
Network Congestion: High traffic on your network, especially during peak hours, can cause disconnections.
Cable Quality: Poor quality or damaged Ethernet cables connecting to the router can affect the internet connection.

The list is long, so let's sort it by where the problem sits. Distance, obstructions, router location and interference from other devices or networks are radio problems, and they weaken the received signal or add noise. Router overload, network congestion and bandwidth-heavy activities are capacity problems. The signal is fine, but there is not enough airtime for every device. Drivers, power saving settings and software conflicts are device problems. ISP issues and cable quality are problems beyond the router, and the wired test in the previous section finds them.

This grouping tells you what to test first. If only one device drops, suspect that device. If every device drops at the same time, suspect the router or the ISP. If devices drop only far from the router, suspect the radio part.

One device or all devices : this single question separates device problems from router and ISP problems.
Weak signal and full airtime look alike : both make the connection slow or unstable, but they need different fixes.

Could My Router Placement Be the Problem?

Absolutely! Where you place your router can have a massive impact on your connection quality. If your router is hidden away in a corner, you might be unintentionally weakening your signal. It's like trying to have a conversation from opposite ends of a crowded room - the further apart you are, the harder it is to hear each other.

Let's put numbers on it with free space path loss. The loss in dB is 20 log₁₀(d) + 20 log₁₀(f) - 147.55, with d in meters and f in Hz. At 10 m, the loss is 60.2 dB on 2.4 GHz channel 6 and 66.7 dB on 5 GHz channel 36. So 5 GHz loses about 6.5 dB more than 2.4 GHz at the same distance. Each doubling of the distance adds another 6.0 dB. Inside a house the loss grows faster than this, because every wall and floor on the path adds its own loss.

These numbers explain the usual advice. Put the router near the center of the area it serves, so the longest distance is as short as possible. Put it high and in the open, not inside a cabinet or behind a TV. Keep it away from large metal objects and from a microwave oven, which works in the 2.4 GHz band. When a device far from the router can see only the 2.4 GHz network, the extra 6.5 dB of loss on 5 GHz is the likely reason.

Distance costs 6 dB per doubling : moving the router to the center of the home often helps more than any setting.
5 GHz reaches less far than 2.4 GHz : at the same distance it loses about 6.5 dB more, before walls are counted.

Is There a Way to Strengthen My Signal?

Indeed, there is! Sometimes, the solution is as simple as moving your router to a better location or adjusting your antennas. Other times, it might involve changing your WiFi channel or updating your firmware to give your network the boost it needs.

Channel choice is the first thing to check, because it costs nothing. In the 2.4 GHz band, the channel centers are only 5 MHz apart, from 2412 MHz for channel 1 to 2462 MHz for channel 11. A 20 MHz channel therefore overlaps its neighbors. Channels 1, 6 and 11 are 25 MHz apart, so they are the only three that do not overlap. Choose the one of these three that your neighbors use least. The 5 GHz band has many more 20 MHz channels, so it is usually less crowded. But some 5 GHz channels are DFS channels, and a router must leave them when it detects radar.

Channel width is the second setting. A 40 MHz or 80 MHz channel gives a higher peak rate, but it also collects interference from a wider band. In a crowded 2.4 GHz area, 20 MHz is usually the more stable choice.

If the home is too large for one router, you can add a mesh node or a repeater. Be careful with a simple repeater that uses one radio for both links. It must receive every frame and send it again on the same channel, so each frame uses the air twice and the throughput drops to about half. A mesh system with a separate backhaul radio, or an access point connected by Ethernet, avoids this.

Use channel 1, 6 or 11 on 2.4 GHz : other channels overlap two of these and receive interference from both.
Wider is not always better : a narrower channel collects less interference.
A single-radio repeater halves throughput : a wired access point or a mesh with a dedicated backhaul keeps the full rate.